By Hilary Latos
Watch for the return of lady like accessories like hats, structured purses, cap toe pointy shoes, and architectural statement jewelry. Lia Sophia showed Art Deco inspired rock crystal statement necklaces that are a perfect complement with Fall’s palette.
Monique Lhullier used the waist as a focal point for her collection with a bold cinching belt that perfected the hourglass silhouette against her femme fatale collection based on a palette of red and black.
While the best and brightest of the Spring collections are just hitting stores now, we are already looking forward to next Fall’s collections that were just showcased during New York Fashion week. What was remarkable about this season is the dichotomy between the old and new guards of fashion with many downtown and newer designers opting to show at the hip and cool Made by Milk at Milk Gallery while contemporary designers and the old guard showed at the tents at Lincoln Center. However there were a record number of international designers and first timers showing in the Box, the smallest venue at the Tents. Next season there will be something for everyone, and retailers will have a tough time choosing.
Next season nails will be your biggest accessory as they are treated like a canvas with wild patterns, saturated colors, triple French manicures, ombre effects and adornments.
For makeup palettes skin shines through with natural looks that punctuate either a smoky lined eye or a softer red lip, never both. Rachel Roy showed a beautiful smoky neutral eye using shimmering taupes against an otherwise nude face.
Color and Texture
Color is here to stay. Complementing the usual rich Fall palette of sienna, chocolate, and russet browns are touches of Byzantine bronze and gold. Blacks and neutral greys are paired with rich jewel tones and primary brights. QVC presented a breezy Spring collection filled with color and metallics. Alice & Olivia had the usual mix of vintage inspired fun colorful sparkly party frocks in long and short lengths with plenty of embellishments like fur toppers and peplum details at the waist.
BCBG showed languid silhouettes with geometric juxtapositions of color blocking simulating a 70s Bauhaus style while Herve Leger layered structured harnesses over his signature couture bandage dresses to create a unique blend of hard and soft.
Known for her prints and ladylike pieces, Milly’s collection had a French flair with derivations of the beret and used a palette of black with cobalt, yellow and hot pink. Whether on leather or patterned tweeds she showed leather sheaths with swaths of color and also played with volume and proportions by pairing heavy tweed jackets and coats with full miniskirts.
While color and prints are no stranger to Nanette Lepore, for Fall she added touches of handcrafted details to her sunny palette. One of the standouts is her sumptuous burgundy coat, which will be the color of the season.
Touches of Luxury
While we are still far from the heady excesses of 2000, there was no shortage of luxury embellishments and layering in next Fall’s collections. Perhaps it’s optimism of the new economy or an influx of a new wealthy international clientele. Whether it is an embellished crystal bustier gown or an edgy androgynous reptile top, there will be plenty of choices for next Fall’s benefit circuit and red carpet events.
Inspired by the 1927 German Expressionist film, Metropolis, Badgley Mischka showed their main line side by side with their younger Mark & James line, with a continuous flow of Byzantine gold and bronze woven throughout the collection with touches of Art Deco architectural influences, for evening it would be goddess lace gowns or on supple boucles and tweeds for day.
With Wallis Simpson as a source of inspiration for his fall collection, Douglas Hannant stayed true to his socialite “ladies who lunch” set with body clinging tweed suits and draped charmeuse tops with oversized bows adding a touch of couture.
Ralph Lauren looked to Downtown Abbey for inspiration and paired English bespoke tailored velvet suits and tweeds with Alpine print sweaters, while giving a modern twist by topping it with an animal print fur coat. For evening, the roaring 20s shined through with gorgeous beaded flapper dresses, gold statement Art deco jewelry, and flowing bias cut satin gowns in fuschia, gold and black.
Already in her second season, Farah Angsana is creating waves with her jet set party girl frocks. Using herself and her friends as her muse she shows us that glamour is still alive with her Swarovski encrusted couture gowns.
Fashion week would not be complete without its usual slew of chic after parties. Kicking off fashion week was Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld’s (son of former vogue Paris Editor Carine Roitfeld) opening for Outtara Watts: Vertigo which attracted a glamorous mix of the social, art and fashion worlds. As the fashion set is always looking for the next best thing, le Baron, the popular jetset boite of Paris, was home to many designer’s parties. One of the most dramatic and visually arresting events was the premiere of Legend of the White Snake starring Daphne Guinness and presenting GK Reid’s collection, Genghis Khan. Set at the neo classical Angel Orensanz Center, the Viva Girls from Beijing played electronica with traditional Chinese instruments for the show.
Closing out fashion week was Nur Khan’s rock n roll event at Hiro where Guns ‘n Roses played a two hour set to a packed house filled with the usual suspects- models, hipsters, and a list celebs.