A Most Urban Cowboy


By Rory Winston

Unlike Brooklyn with its post-ironic flare for resuscitating artery-clogging comfort foods till they smack of pedigree, Manhattan ‘just don’t take too kindly to Midwestern fare’… unless, of course, it’s been thoroughly reinvented by the likes of Nicholas Nostadt, the Ohioan chef reared in the heart of …well, the French Culinary Institute.