Ready to wear brand Linder unveiled their Fall/Winter 2019 womenswear collection in The Highline Room at The Standard, Highline in New York City. In a continuation of the approach for SS19, the aim of this collection was an assortment of separates that stand on their own rather than serve a pre conceived overall look.
“We see identity expressed nowadays mostly in the way individuals combine wardrobe elements in a kind of ever changing self collage — as opposed to signaling identification with a single typology or lifestyle, or a particular brand.
The design method, as in previous seasons, involved mashing up references from non-contiguous spheres workwear and evening wear for example — but continuing the mashing until there was a level of fusion and the original references had traded in their old specificity for a new one.”
Moleskin is combined with satin, the same satin is cut for shirts with ‘athletic’ styling details and seams (in particular an armhole that maps the shoulder muscle, and which appears in various styles and fabrications), spandex is printed with buffalo check, or cut on the bias for a flowing, ruffled gown hem. The knits pair shaggy alpaca with slick viscose, and sporty shapes with traditional lace-stitch detailing.
“We also applied hand treatments to many garments, and the technique here was to fold the garments and then
spray them, with bleach or paint, so that the resulting decoration is a trace of the garment’s own geome
try. Pearl necklaces and cuban link chains also left their ‘shadow’ on sheer necklines and scarves.
We were lucky to be able to collaborate with Mephisto, Cafe Du Cycliste, and Swarovski. Mephisto collaborated
with us to create the shoes, which are among the most comfortable any of us has ever worn, and there is a
reason this family-owned business has thrived for many decades and won numerous awards. Cafe Du Cycliste
outfits serious cycling enthusiasts, which means their product is developed for performance and technical
demands, yet all of it has an easy beauty and wearability. They supplied socks, neck warmers, caps, and arm
sleeves. Swarovski provided us with great numbers of crystal ‘pearls’ in rich white, black and gold, plus some
burgundy and iridescent green ones. We extend our gratitude to all of these partners.”