Threads of Glamour: Naeem Khan’s Timeless Legacy of Heritage and Haute Couture
Born and raised in Mumbai, Naeem Khan’s journey into the world of high fashion began amidst a vibrant cultural landscape, where he was surrounded by art, architecture, and a deep appreciation for history. Growing up in a family of textile artisans who worked for Indian royalty, Khan was exposed early on to the art of fine detailing, luxurious fabrics, and the intricacies of design. His grandfather and father, master craftsmen, created regal garments for Indian nobility, and it was under their guidance that Khan developed a profound understanding of textiles and ornamentation. From a young age, he absorbed the meticulous skills of hand embroidery, beadwork, and the use of opulent fabrics—traditions that would later define his own approach to fashion.
Determined to become a designer, Khan moved to the United States as a teenager. He quickly found a place in the American fashion world, working as an apprentice for the legendary designer Halston, where he began to shape his unique aesthetic. Under Halston’s mentorship, Khan honed a minimalist, modern approach to fashion that emphasized draping, cutting, and clean lines. Halston’s philosophy of “modern restraint” was a contrast to the rich, embellished designs of Khan’s Indian heritage, but it resonated with Khan and inspired him to create a fusion between the two worlds.
“Working with Halston taught me the art of simplicity,” he reflects. “But my roots, with their intricate craftsmanship, gave me a sense of richness that I could never abandon.”
During his time with Halston, Khan worked on designs worn by icons like Elizabeth Taylor and Liza Minnelli, absorbing the glamour and elegance that characterized New York’s fashion elite in the 1970s and 1980s. This experience was transformative, shaping his understanding of timeless design and the importance of creating pieces that feel luxurious and enduring. Reflecting on that era, Khan often recalls the “freedom and energy” of working in a time when American fashion was experiencing a renaissance, with designers like Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass pushing creative boundaries.
When Khan launched his eponymous label in 2003, he combined his family’s legacy of opulent craftsmanship with Halston’s ethos of modernity, creating designs that soon attracted a global clientele. His collections became known for their intricate beadwork, embroidery, and sumptuous fabrics, which captured the attention of high-profile figures and celebrities. From First Lady Michelle Obama, who wore his designs for state dinners, to pop icons like Beyoncé and Taylor Swift, Khan’s work quickly established him as a designer capable of creating both drama and elegance.
Khan’s designs are a fusion of East and West, embodying the intricate craftsmanship of his Indian heritage with the sleek sophistication he cultivated in New York. This blend has become the hallmark of his style, seen in everything from his red-carpet gowns to his bridal collections. As he expanded into bridal wear in 2013, his brand continued to grow, gracing boutiques like Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, and Saks Fifth Avenue and reaching over 150 retailers globally.
Today, Khan’s designs are not only celebrated for their beauty but also their sense of place in the world of luxury fashion, honoring both his heritage and his experience in the American fashion industry. His commitment to independent craftsmanship and his dedication to preserving the art of high fashion have solidified his legacy as one of the few designers who seamlessly bridges traditional artisanship with contemporary glamour.
Khan speaks to Resident Magazine about the inspirations behind his work, his experience dressing royalty and First Ladies, and the challenges and triumphs of building an independent fashion brand.
Naeem, you come from a family of designers who crafted for Indian royalty. How did this unique background shape your approach to design?
Naeem Khan: Growing up in Mumbai, I was surrounded by art, architecture, and a deep sense of history. My family worked closely with textiles; my grandfather and father designed for Indian royals, and I learned from them. It was more than just fashion; it was about creating something meaningful and beautiful. When I moved to the U.S. as a teenager, I had the privilege of working as an apprentice under Halston. He taught me the art of restraint—how to cut, drape, and understand fabrics to create silhouettes that are elegant and timeless. It was about blending the opulence of my heritage with the sophistication I learned from Halston, and that fusion has defined my style.
Over the years, you’ve dressed some of the world’s most recognized figures, from Beyoncé and Taylor Swift to Queen Noor and Kate Middleton. How do you approach designing for such diverse clients?
Khan: Every client brings something unique, whether they’re a celebrity, a royal, or a First Lady. My job is to create something that respects their personality and the occasion. For instance, when I designed for Michelle Obama, the pieces weren’t just about her style—they were about the places she was visiting. Each dress respected the culture of the country she was traveling to. In China, her dress carried elements that honored Chinese culture. Similarly, with Queen Noor, I design caftans that reflect her Islamic background, using soft, flowing fabrics and intricate detailing.
With celebrities, it’s about creating drama that suits the moment. For Taylor Swift, I designed a fringe dress for her Eras Tour that moves with her, creating a dynamic effect as she performs. It’s about understanding the needs of the person wearing it and translating my aesthetic to fit their world. There’s a collaboration in spirit, but they trust me with the design.
Your recent collaboration with Universal Studios for a collection inspired by “Wicked” is fascinating. What was it like to blend fashion with the theatrical?
Khan: It was a thrilling project. Universal reached out because they felt my designs, which are both glamorous and dramatic, aligned perfectly with the “Wicked” theme of good versus evil. They gave me creative freedom to interpret this concept, which allowed me to explore the idea of “glamorous evil.” I used darker palettes, luxurious fabrics, and rich beading to bring the duality of the story to life.
Theatricality has always been an element of my work; many of my collections are inspired by grand themes, whether it’s the royal families of Japan or travels through India. The challenge was keeping the essence of my look—elegant and timeless—while adding a dramatic twist that fits the story. It’s about taking the woman who wears my clothes on a journey while keeping her grounded in my aesthetic.
Your designs reflect a signature timeless quality. How do you keep them evolving without chasing trends?
Khan: I’m not a trendy designer, and I think that’s important. My work is timeless, but it does evolve with the moment. The process isn’t about following trends; it’s about drawing inspiration from life around me. Whether it’s nature, an old movie, or a theatrical theme like “Wicked,” my collections grow from what I find inspiring at that time. My goal is to create pieces that stand the test of time. It’s subtle changes, like adjusting silhouettes or experimenting with new fabrics, that keep my designs fresh without losing the essence of my brand.
The fashion industry is incredibly competitive and challenging. What are the biggest obstacles designers face today?
Khan: Fashion is a tough business—more so now than ever. The industry is affected by many factors: the economy, interest rates, even political events. When you’re dealing with large department stores, there are pressures around pricing, competition, and timely deliveries. Economic downturns lead to cautious spending, which affects everyone. But for me, designing for occasions helps my business remain steady. Weddings, bar mitzvahs, and other important events keep the demand for my designs consistent. Still, maintaining a balance between creativity and the business side is challenging.
You’re one of the few independent designers who still owns their brand. Can you talk about your journey as an independent designer and what it means for your business?
Khan: Yes, being an independent designer in today’s fashion world is rare. I come from a family business background, so there’s a strong sense of legacy. I’m the third generation, and now my sons are part of the business, representing the fourth generation. Some years are incredibly profitable, and others are tough. But I believe in remaining consistent, dedicated to my craft, and building a brand that represents quality and integrity.
I am exploring partnerships now, though, particularly to help me expand retail stores internationally. There’s a big opportunity in cities like Riyadh and Mumbai, and having stand-alone stores would allow me to reach my customers directly. It’s a balancing act—I want to grow the brand while preserving the essence of what makes it unique.
What advice would you give to aspiring designers looking to break into the fashion industry?
Khan: Dedication and humility are key. When I worked with Halston, I learned that being humble and respectful opens doors and builds trust. Fashion isn’t just about creating clothes; it’s about understanding art, culture, and society. You have to be out there, meeting clients, seeing what they’re wearing, understanding their lives.
A good designer doesn’t sit in an ivory tower. You have to connect with people, and your designs should reflect that connection. Be involved in arts, nature, and social causes—everything that influences your clients and your craft. And stay true to yourself. Knowing my client and staying dedicated to my vision has helped me build this brand.
You’re deeply involved in philanthropic work, from supporting the Mirror Foundation in the Dominican Republic to working with Alzheimer’s charities. How do these causes impact you?
Khan: Giving back is a big part of my life. I’ve been working with the Mirror Foundation in the Dominican Republic for over a decade, supporting nearly 4,000 children with education, food, and healthcare. It’s rewarding to see the impact it has on these children’s lives. I’m also involved with Princess Yasmin Aga Khan’s Alzheimer’s-related causes, which are very close to my heart. Fashion has given me a lot, and it’s important to share that. Giving back brings a balance to my life and reminds me of the bigger picture.
You split your time between Miami and New York. How do these cities influence your work?
Khan: Miami and New York are very different, and they inspire different sides of my creativity. New York is fast-paced, full of energy, and it fuels my high-glamour collections. Miami, on the other hand, has a more laid-back vibe, which I turn to when I’m working on spring or resort collections. The Latin culture there loves glamour, so that energy is always present. But in Miami, I also take the time to unwind and reconnect with my vision. It’s a balance of relaxation and creativity.
What new ventures are on the horizon for you?
Khan: I’m working on a fragrance line that will launch next year, which is a thrilling new direction for me. Designing a scent takes time—it’s not just about the fragrance itself but also the packaging and the overall experience. I’m also focusing on expanding my retail operations. The idea is to bring my designs directly to clients in places like Dubai and Mumbai through standalone stores. It’s exciting to think about reaching more people in different parts of the world.
Naeem Khan’s story is one of resilience, elegance, and dedication. As he continues to innovate, his designs remain a testament to his roots and vision, marrying intricate craftsmanship with timeless beauty. From Mumbai to the world stage, Khan’s work continues to captivate, proving that true artistry is always in style.
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