Bonaire is a little Dutch Island in the Caribbean Sea just north of Venezuela. It’s considered to be one of the ABC islands, which also includes Aruba and Curacao, and it’s the one located on the east of the other two. The island is dry, with short shrubs, short trees and cacti. And uniquely populated by wild goats, donkeys and flamingos. And of course, one of the bests features of the island is the beautiful beaches and the coastal water life.
My trip started off a bit rocky, with a full day delay from Miami, but the flight itself was quick, and I still made it to dinner at the luxurious oceanfront Brass Boer, located at the Delfins Beach Resort. Wow, what a way to start off this vacation. While on the pricier side, the food preparation and presentation and atmosphere of the venue made it worth it. Our feet in the sand right by the oceanside, with dimmed lighting and candlelight, enjoying the ocean sounds and savoring every bite.
I checked into Harbour Village after dinner. A beautiful resort that hugs the beach on the west side of the island. The hotel suite was huge, with a large living and dining room, two bathrooms, and a spacious bedroom with a comfortable king bed. My favorite part was that it had a little courtyard backyard that faced the beach and ocean and a little exit gate that made it so convenient. I utilized this on the first night and spent a few minutes on the beach on a hammock.
With the early Caribbean sun ushering in a new day on Bonaire, the next day of my travel began at La Balandra, an outdoor restaurant conveniently located at the Harbour Village on a dock over the water. My yogurt parfait and a latte were delicious. Following breakfast, we embarked on a North Side Island Tour with our guide, Rolando, a local connoisseur of the island's secrets and a member of the Tourism Corporation Bonaire (TCB). Rolando showed us the natural beauty of Bonaire at Washington Slagbaai National Park, where we got to see a few donkeys on the way, and the beautiful coast and wildlife.
Before we stopped on the coast to snorkel and swim, Rolando reminded us of the importance of the STINAPA nature tag, a token of our contribution to preserving the beauty we were about to witness. This modest fee is Bonaire's way of ensuring that the splendor of its waters and the natural sanctity of places like Washington Slagbaai remain for future generations to cherish. The highlight of the tour for me was on the way back to the van, when a few iguanas approached, and I got to hand feed them some crackers. They were surprisingly quite gentle with me, even though each time they took a bite from my hand it made me jump a little in fear of getting bitten. We stopped for lunch at a local spot, Posada Para Mira, where we indulged in flavors that were as authentic as they were delicious.
In the afternoon, we visited the Landsailing Adventures. We got to ride what looks like a little cart with a huge sail on it. Honestly, I was not expecting to enjoy this activity as much as I did. I was giggling around that track like a child. Each turn felt like a mystery of how much the wind would accelerate the vessel and how you could manage to stay on track with all wheels on the ground. The couple that ran the company, was very sweet, and passionate about the sport, with the husband competing professionally.
For dinner and sunset, we took a short trip from the hotel to Ingredients, set within the Buddy Dive Resort. We sat right at the edge of the restaurant with a magnificent view overlooking the water and sunset. The food presentation was beautiful, and it was equally appetizing. After dinner, we took a ride south to Karel’s Beach Bar, island's popular craft tiki bar. A family-owned operation that’s been serving patrons since 1929. It’s a beautiful spot, built right over the water on a dock, with plans for expansion soon. By the dock, they have blue lights that illuminate the ocean-life swimming below, which was quite entertaining.
We started the next day at Between 2 Buns, a yummy local breakfast spot with delicious choices. Then headed to Coral Restoration Snorkel at Buddy Dive Resort. Before we got in the water, we got a chance to learn about Reef Renewal on the island and the important work that Buddy Dive Resort does to assist with rebuilding the coral. Then we got a chance to see it ourselves under water. No matter how many times I go snorkeling, I’m always amazed by the ocean life that’s seen when you look under the water. On this particular adventure, I was amazed at the depth the water dropped to slightly off shore. It was like a cliff covered in coral under water.
We enjoyed lunch at Bari Beach Bar. It resembled something like Nikki Beach Club, a spacious venue with a restaurant right on the beach, surrounded by lounge beds, palm trees, and a gorgeous view of the water. The service was a bit slow, but not in the least bothersome if you’re not in a rush, since this is the type of venue you don’t want to rush out of. We enjoyed our frozen cocktails in the shade, while waiting on the delicious lunch entrees.
Post-lunch at Bari Beach Bar, we returned to Harbour Village Hotel for an exhilarating scuba diving adventure. Just meters from the shore, the ocean floor dramatically descended, unveiling a submerged vessel adorned with vibrant corals and colorful fish. The highlight was the curious sight of little black snakes emerging from the sand, adding an element of surprise to our underwater exploration. Our instructor's expert guidance made the dive not only comfortable but truly magical, revealing the captivating marine life that Bonaire harbors just beneath its waves.
For the evening, we treated ourselves to a beautiful sunset sail and dinner on the Melisa Sailing. This 6-course tasting menu from “Brandon Poort”, award-winning Caribbean Chef in Bonaire, is one of those must-do experiences. The luxurious boat was a classic beauty made of mostly wood, with spacious lounge decks, comfortable cushions, and unique rugs, that allowed for multiple groups of guests to each feel like they had their own private area to enjoy the sail from. We left the marina around 5 pm, with the sky still bright above us, and enjoyed the full stunning sunset, followed by a sky full of stars, before returning to shore. The experience was so relaxing and romantic.
Upon returning to Harbour Village post-sailing, I found myself drawn to the beach hammock once more. As I lay there, chatting on the phone, my gaze was caught by what appeared to be a rock moving in the ocean. Curiosity piqued, I later ventured to explore, only to discover a large turtle diligently digging a nest for its eggs on the hotel's beach. This serendipitous encounter, witnessing the miracle of life in such close proximity, was undoubtedly the highlight of my trip and a memory I will cherish forever.
The next day began leisurely, with breakfast at the hotel, followed by a horseback ride through Bonaire's unique landscape. The tour, led by the owner at Horse Ranch Bonaire, took us through the Kunukus of Bonaire, and into the serene Mangrove Forests, home to a flamboyance of flamingos. The horses were gentle, making the ride enjoyable for both novices and experienced riders alike. Having grown up horseback riding, I was thrilled that my horse complied with my request to gallop, and I got a chance to take the side path on the way back, which the horse instinctively recognized as the galloping path. I do recommend doing this activity on a cooler day, as the warm sun, helmet and the heat of the horse, can make you feel a bit overheated on a longer ride.
Post-ride, we headed to Bagel & Bloom in Downtown Kralendijk. This quaint spot charmed us with its cozy ambiance, rustic design, and a delightful selection of brunch items. This was also sadly the last time we got to see Annette from TCB, who was such a pleasure to get to know during our trip to Bonaire. Her cheerful spirit and amazing recommendations were truly appreciated.
Next, we explored the south side of Bonaire. A striking contract of the island’s landscapes of the north. About 13 percent of the 115-square-mile island, and the bulk of the narrow sea-level southern end, is leased by Cargill for salt production, and made into a giant system of ponds and pools which evaporate seawater to produce salt. As the water progresses through the pools, it changes shades from blue, to light green to pink, and ultimately to crystals of white salt. The salt is collected and stacked into Bonaire's iconic salt pyramids and about 400,000 metric tons of salt is exported all over the world annually. As we drove past the colorful Salt Pans, we got a chance to stop on the right side of the road where there was a pile of huge salt crystals that we got to touch and feel ourselves and had the opportunity to take a souvenir home with us. On the lower southeast end of the island’s beach is where you’ll see kiteboarding.
The shallow water is perfect for it, and simultaneously provides such a gorgeous view of turquoise water into the far distance. On the southern west side of the island by Lac Bay is where you’ll find the bustling Jibe City, a hub for windsurfers. Thanks to the stable winds blowing at Bonaire, the island is a prime destination for windsurfers from across the globe, and the turquoise, light blue waters of Lac Bay make it even more enjoyable. The popular Hang Out Beachbar is the perfect spot for a cold drink or lunch located right over the water in Jibe City. There are also a few shops on the strip, with cute surfing attire. On our drive around the coast, we spotted a couple wild donkeys near the road. Although they were a bit fearful, they approached when they noticed we had a little snack for them. For animal lovers, there is a Donkey Sanctuary where you can interact with these adorable animals.
As the evening settled in, we dined at Ocean Oasis Beach Club. This spot lived up to its name, offering a serene beachfront setting, nature inspired design, paired with exquisite cuisine. I loved their menu options and food presentation. We got there at dusk, with the beach lounge area surrounded by tiki torches, under the bright navy sky and palm trees.
Our final day in Bonaire began with a rejuvenating session at the Harbour Village Spa. The Swedish massages were a perfect way to relax and reflect on the adventures of the past days. For breakfast, we visited the newly opened Number Ten, a chic eatery in downtown Kralendijk. Their delicious breakfast and brunch options, along with their warm hospitality, provided a delightful start to the morning. With a heart full of memories, I checked out of the Harbour Village Bonaire in the afternoon. As I was heading to the airport, I was already dreaming of my return back to the island for some windsurfing and kiteboarding.
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