Eugenia Kim: Crafting a Legacy of Bold Elegance and Innovation
Few names evoke the same blend of playful sophistication and timeless innovation as Fashion Designer Eugenia Kim. From her accidental start in millinery after a bad haircut to her award-winning designs that push creative boundaries, Eugenia has reshaped the role of accessories in women's wardrobes. In this exclusive interview, the designer shares insights into her organic creative process, the importance of staying true to her brand DNA, and her exciting new ventures—including a Wicked-inspired collaboration and a functional yet chic tennis line. Join us as we delve into the mind of a true visionary who has turned hats into iconic statements.
Your hat designs have become iconic in the fashion world. Can you walk us through your creative process? Where do you typically find inspiration for your Collections?
Our process is very organic. We typically begin with seasonal inspiration, which guides the development of our color palette. As someone who is deeply inspired by materials, I look for elements that resonate with our concept. However, I often take creative detours—sometimes it’s refreshing not to follow inspiration too literally or rigidly. We’re fortunate to have an in-house atelier that handcrafts all of our hat samples and prototypes. I start with an initial concept, and then they bring it to life, allowing room for evolution and refinement along the way. While some designers take a more direct, step-by-step approach, my method is more fluid—I prefer a journey that moves from point A to point B, and eventually leads us to point C. It’s a more circuitous route but it’s the way my creative process works.
When you first began designing hats, it was out of a personal need after a bad haircut. How did that one moment turn into a full-fledged business?
When I first moved to New York City, I was taking a millinery class, and one night, on a whim, I decided to cut my own hair. It turned out so badly that I ended up shaving my head. It was the middle of December and my naked head was cold. That’s when I decided to create hand-feathered hats that looked like hair, in a variety of colors. One day, while shopping in Soho, two different store owners asked me where I got my hat. By the end of the day, I had appointments with both stores. One of them began carrying my hats, and that’s really how it all started. I later recreated these hats and others from that time period in celebration of the 25th anniversary of Eugenia Kim.
Your designs often strike a balance between playful and sophisticated. How do you maintain that signature blend in each collection?
It’s something deeply personal to me. I’ve always been a rebel, and my cutting-edge designs reflect this. I’m also a minimalist by nature but a fun minimalist. For instance, our best-selling coloa, after neutrals, is pink. These qualities inform my sense of design, along with the fact that I get inspired by a variety of different types of women. This makes my designs universal and the category of hats wearable and relatable.
Do you have a favorite collection or piece you’ve designed? What made it particularly special for you?
Yes, this piece was actually the one I created in 2004 when I won the CFDA Award for Accessories Design. It’s a black satin fascinator shaped like an ashtray, adorned with leather cigarettes and Swarovski crystal 'ashes.' I later recreated it for my Icon Collection.
Your brand started in 1998 and has grown tremendously. What were some of the biggest challenges you faced when starting out, and how did you overcome them?
One of my biggest challenges was not having the formal education that comes from attending fashion school. I had to learn on the go as my business grew. However, I quickly realized that building a strong team to support the business was essential to its success.
What do you think are the key elements that helped your brand reach and sustain its level of success?
It’s been incredibly helpful in honing my ability to design for my customers, especially since I do so many trunk shows and personal appearances. When I had a retail store, I was constantly engaging with people, and that direct connection taught me a lot. It’s not just about designing a hat in a vacuum, it’s about understanding women and the role a hat plays in their wardrobe.' I know every type of customer because I’ve met so many, and that’s really crucial. Being one-on-one with your customer is key. My brand is what it is because of the customers who connect with it. They are a part of the Eugenia Kim ethos, and seeing their reactions has been invaluable.
How has your approach to fashion design evolved over the years, especially in response to industry changes or consumer demands?
Sustainability has become increasingly important to both me and our customers. In response, we've partnered with local artisans through programs that provide craftsmen with new job opportunities, allowing them to preserve their traditional techniques while raising awareness about this valuable form of artistry. For example, by working with local programs in aColombia, we’ve helped women maintain their unique weaving skills while also boosting community employment. Additionally, we’re more mindful of our production processes, focusing on reducing waste and minimizing our environmental impact.
Tell us more about your collaboration with Wicked this upcoming season.
I’ve been working on this collaboration with NBCUniversal for months, and I’m thrilled to finally reveal the collection I’ve created, inspired by the characters of Elphaba and Glinda. I had never seen Wicked on Broadway before, so this project gave me the opportunity to really immerse myself in the characters as they are portrayed in the film.
What advice would you give to emerging designers looking to establish themselves in the fashion world today?
Once you’ve identified your brand DNA and target customer, it’s crucial to stay true to that foundation—it’s what will keep customers coming back time and time again. Being creative is important, but in today’s world, you also need to have a strong business mindset.
What do you see as the future for Eugenia Kim as a brand? Tell us more about the launch of the LOVE collection.
This past spring, we launched Eugenia Kim LOVE, a collection inspired by my passion for tennis and the love story between my husband and me, since we first met on the tennis court. I designed everything in the Eugenia Kim LOVE line to be not only highly functional for tennis, but also versatile enough to look chic both on and off the courts. And, of course, everything includes discreet pockets. It’s funny because years ago, my psychic told me I would design clothing with a lot of pockets, which made no sense to me at the time.