Louis Vuitton Reintroduces the Monterey: A Horological Icon Reimagined for the Modern Collector

Source: Louis Vuitton

Reported By: Matthew Kennedy

Louis Vuitton has unveiled the Monterey, a limited-edition timepiece that reinterprets the Maison’s first-ever wristwatch — a horological milestone originally launched in 1988. The Monterey reflects a dialogue between past and present, paying tribute to the visionary Gae Aulenti, the Italian architect and designer behind the original LV I and LV II watches.

Crafted by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the new Monterey revisits the distinctive “pebble” silhouette of the original models while elevating its technical and aesthetic codes. Limited to 188 pieces, the watch embodies the Maison’s dedication to innovation, artistry, and enduring elegance.

When Louis Vuitton debuted the LV I and LV II in 1988, it marked a daring departure from traditional watchmaking norms. Partnering with Gae Aulenti—celebrated for transforming Paris’s Gare d’Orsay into the Musée d’Orsay—the Maison introduced two avant-garde timepieces that married design innovation with the spirit of travel.

The LV I, a 40mm creation in white or yellow gold, featured a crown set at 12 o’clock as a nod to pocket watches, along with world time and GMT functions. Its smaller sibling, the LV II, was crafted in scratch-resistant ceramic and incorporated an alarm. Both designs became instant cult classics, later affectionately nicknamed “Monterey”—a play on the French word montre (watch) and its American pronunciation.

Decades later, the Monterey’s unconventional charm has resurfaced among collectors and tastemakers. At Louis Vuitton’s Women’s Fall-Winter 2025 runway show in Paris, Nicolas Ghesquière styled models with original 1988 LV II watches, reaffirming their enduring influence on contemporary design.

The new Louis Vuitton Monterey encapsulates the Maison’s dual mastery of artistry and engineering. Its 39mm 18K yellow gold case, shaped and polished entirely by hand, retains the original pebble-like curves and the signature crown at 12 o’clock. The refined form, devoid of lugs, offers an ergonomic fit and timeless aesthetic balance.

Beneath the case lies the LFT MA01.02 automatic movement, developed in-house by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. The movement features an 18K rose gold rotor adorned with V-notches—a subtle homage to the LV Monogram—and delivers a 45-hour power reserve. Precision finishes, including sandblasted bridges and circular-grained plates, affirm the meticulous craftsmanship behind every unseen detail.

At the heart of the Monterey’s design is its white Grand Feu enamel dial, a study in precision and patience. This centuries-old enameling technique—translated as “great fire”—involves layering powdered enamel on a white gold plate and firing it multiple times at temperatures between 800°C and 900°C. Each dial requires approximately 20 hours of work, with every firing presenting the risk of cracking and restarting from scratch.

The process culminates in a luminous, opaline finish that achieves both depth and purity of color. Red and blue enamel accents pay homage to the original graphic design, while syringe-style white gold hands in red lacquer and a blued steel seconds hand reinforce the watch’s heritage aesthetic. The markings “FAB. EN SUISSE” and “LOUIS VUITTON PARIS” complete the composition, bridging Swiss precision and Parisian artistry.

Every Monterey bears its individuality through discreet details: an engraved “1 of 188” marking on the closed caseback, visible only when the black calf leather strap is removed. This nod to exclusivity underscores the Maison’s philosophy that luxury should be as personal as it is exceptional.

The tactile experience extends to the widened Clous de Paris-textured crown, meticulously sculpted by hand-operated machines. Its notched pattern not only enhances grip but also adds a tactile poetry to the act of winding the watch—a reminder that timekeeping, for Louis Vuitton, remains an art form as much as a craft.

The Louis Vuitton Monterey is more than a re-edition. It is a celebration of the Maison’s creative lineage—bridging Gae Aulenti’s architectural vision of the 1980s with the artisanal prowess of La Fabrique du Temps today. The result is a contemporary heirloom, one that embodies the Maison’s ethos of innovation through tradition.

By revisiting its first foray into watchmaking, Louis Vuitton reinforces its standing in haute horlogerie: respectful of heritage, driven by craftsmanship, and unafraid to reinterpret its own icons for a new generation of collectors.