One Latke, Two Boroughs: Chef Michael King Reimagines a Holiday Classic in New York

A great latke plays well anywhere. In Chef Michael King’s kitchens, it plays twice — with two distinct personalities tied together by one deeply considered recipe. At Sungold in Williamsburg and NoMad Diner in Midtown, King has created a throughline built on shared flavor, seasonal intention, and New York’s endless hunger for something familiar made new.

The signature Celery Root Latke, now available year-round, has earned cult status — even securing praise from Grub Street as a standout in the “Potato Hall of Fame.” And while Hanukkah traditions certainly help propel its popularity each winter, the story behind this two-day process is what keeps diners returning. King spends the holiday season celebrating with his wife and children, honing what he considers the ideal holiday latke. That personal ritual helped inspire the version found across both restaurants today.

Sungold presents the dish as a polished small plate, leaning into the restaurant’s ingredient-driven ethos. The latke arrives in thick, triangular wedges composed of shredded Idaho russets and shaved celery root. Slow-cooked in clarified butter, then pressed, chilled, and fried to order, the result is a crisp exterior that gives way to a gratin-like center.

The plate is finished with pear butter, finely grated horseradish, and a flurry of chives, offering a balance of sweetness and heat. The method matters.

This is the culinary sweet spot: technique forward, quietly playful, rooted in intention.

Across the river at NoMad Diner, King lets the latke break into something more indulgent. He serves it as the base for a playful Eggs Benedict, paired with hollandaise and a choice of Black Forest ham, Brooklyn smoked salmon, or smashed avocado.

Here, the same latke becomes a brunch indulgence — always crisp, always expressive — but leaning into comfort.

It’s easy to see why the dish resonates. New Yorkers know the joy of a perfect Benedict, but swapping the English muffin for a time-intensive two-day latke adds surprising depth.

The duality speaks to King’s broader cooking philosophy: technique and seasonality as foundations, creativity as the connective thread. Sungold’s version feels contemplative; NoMad Diner’s feels eager, even mischievous. Yet both belong to the same culinary point of view — one that sees classic dishes as opportunities, not limitations.

This latke exists in two boroughs, but its story belongs to the city. It nods to tradition while daring to evolve. And in a landscape where dishes often come and go without context, King’s approach feels refreshing. One ingredient, two interpretations, each speaking its own New York dialect.

A single latke with two lives. A holiday classic made for every month on the calendar.