David Koma's Autumn-Winter 2026: A Dance of Elegance and Brutalism

Juxtapositions have long defined the David Koma universe. For Autumn–Winter 2026, the designer imagines an elegant swan gliding through a brutalist cityscape softness confronting the stark geometry of concrete. From this tension between fragility and strength, grace and structure, the collection takes shape. In Koma’s hands, femininity appears sharper, colder, and more powerful than ever.

Sensuality emerges through restraint: the body revealed in controlled gestures, intimacy transformed into structure. The disciplined lines of tailoring are set against eruptions of soft volume, while sliced silhouettes reveal glimpses of skin with deliberate precision. The glamourous indulgence of crystal and feathers contrasts with austere colour palette. Showgirl glamour lingers beneath the dark surface, refracted through a colder, urban lens where elegance feels intellectual and quietly provocative.

Silhouettes move between fluidity and structure. Sculptural volumes of tulle and feather-pleated ruffles rise from the body like wings, framing shoulders and waists or cascading down floor-length hems. Garments echo the verticality of urban architecture: elongated jackets, column skirts, razor-like trousers, and stark mini-dresses.

Material contrasts heighten the tension. Whisper-light lace, transparent sequins, silk and ruched mesh evoke delicacy and movement, balanced by the structural weight of tailoring wool and matte sequin bouclé. Speckled shearling appears as imposing coats, shawls and collar trims, forming the most delicate kind of armour. Mongolian wool expands into wing-like volumes before dissolving into fluid lengths of chiffon. Elsewhere, gradients of feathers appear to grow directly from paillette bases, creating the illusion of wings in motion. Patent leather flowers reinterpret lace with sculptural sharpness, while looped fringe knits build tactile dimension. Crystal and pearl quills punctuate jackets and adorn bras in intimate gestures.

The palette remains almost entirely monochrome. Ecru and black establish a dialogue of uncompromising clarity between light and shadow, allowing texture to take centre stage.