At Milan Fashion Week, Martino Midali chose stillness as his opening statement. The Fall Winter 2026/2027 presentation unfolded at Palazzo Bovara, yet the tone was set even earlier in the historic garden, where a solitary red bench greeted guests at the entrance.
The bench encouraged visitors to pause and reflect, interrupting the typical rhythm of a runway arrival. In that quiet gesture, Midali introduced the core idea behind I N S O S P E N S I O N E, a collection shaped by intentional suspension. Here, pause does not signal inactivity. It signals balance. Fashion, in this context, stops declaring and starts listening, positioning clothing as a space to inhabit.
The show was developed in partnership with Stati Generali delle Donne, a network focused on advancing gender equality and recognizing the value of women’s work. Within this framework, the red bench took on broader cultural meaning, reinforcing the collection’s call for shared responsibility.
The data presented alongside the project underscored the urgency. In 2024, 113 women were killed, with 94 cases occurring within family contexts. Preliminary figures for 2025 indicate approximately 95 to 100 victims, again largely within family settings. The pattern is stark. One woman every three days. In more than 80 percent of cases, the perpetrator was known to the victim. Across their lifetimes, 6.8 million women have experienced violence.
Against this backdrop, Midali positioned fashion as a vehicle for awareness and presence, using the runway as a platform for reflection as much as design.
The Fall Winter 2026/2027 collection unfolds through elongated vertical lines that trace the body without constriction. Soft shoulders and lengths that fall below the knee establish a composed urban profile, while continuous volumes maintain movement within the structure.
Wool coats anchor the wardrobe, distinguished by wide collars and off center closures that reinterpret classic tailoring through a more fluid lens. Soft pinstripes, geometric jacquards, and straight skirts introduce a measured graphic rhythm that feels controlled and deliberate.
The overall impression is one of quiet architecture. Nothing competes for attention. Each element contributes to a cohesive visual language grounded in restraint.
Materiality plays a central role throughout the lineup. Mélange wools, herringbone constructions, and compact knits create depth through texture, while the color story stays grounded in luminous neutrals, mineral greys, warm browns, black, and midnight blue.
Technical fabrics introduce a modern counterpoint. Crisp, lightweight, matte materials appear in unlined parkas and adjustable silhouettes, adding subtle dynamism without disrupting the collection’s calm tone.
Tone on tone knitwear and the protective presence of faux fur complete the layering story. The garments feel breathable and intentionally open, reinforcing Midali’s ongoing interest in clothing that accompanies the body instead of defining it.
Alongside professional models, real women returned to the Martino Midali runway. Their presence was not symbolic. It was integral.
Ludmilla Voronkina Bozzetti walked under the theme of Awareness, carrying a presence shaped by rigor and sensitivity. Ida Di Filippo embodied Expertise, bringing the authority of a television personality grounded in professional credibility. Lorella Flego represented Coherence, reflecting years of balanced and thoughtful fashion storytelling.
Martina Pascutti appeared under the theme of Rebirth, presenting the perspective of an entrepreneur and independent mother whose personal discipline informs her public identity. Paola Ran brought Matter into focus, bridging art and fashion through her work as a movement artist. Chiara Tagliaferri carried Thought onto the runway, drawing from her work giving voice to women’s stories.
They were not there to perform an ideal. They walked as themselves, reinforcing the collection’s central message.
With I N S O S P E N S I O N E, Martino Midali offers a Fall Winter 2026/2027 collection that favors reflection over spectacle. The project moves with intention, balancing material research, social awareness, and wearable design within a single narrative.