Now and again, your radio will need re-tuning. Your clothes dryer may also need to be unclogged. Sometimes, your kitchen sink needs unblocking and, almost certainly, your vehicle needs regular servicing to keep it in good working order. Why, then, does a luxury watch owner not expect to have to service or clean their watch regularly?

It’s a common misunderstanding amongst watch enthusiasts. A collector will purchase an expensive watch and, despite most other expensive things in his life costing him money to upkeep, he’ll be under the illusion that he shouldn’t have to spend another penny on it. Ever.

But watch collecting runs much deeper than that. Whether you’re an experienced watch collector or new to the hobby, you will need to invest some time and money into caring for your timepiece properly, especially if you want that investment to hold its value for generations to come (and actually keep good time).

It’s not all bad. In fact, those who acknowledge that a timepiece needs to be cared for properly will agree that it’s all part of the watch-collecting experience. And while a mechanical timepiece doesn’t need to be serviced as much as your car, it certainly deserves the same level of care.

Picture your treasured Omega or trusty Rolex working its way onto your grandson’s wrist in 30 years' time. It’s a slice of history - a practical and wearable symbol of sentiment – a token of your own personal milestones, and a tangible financial asset that you’ve always wanted to pass down the family line. But the second hand travels across the dial in a hesitant, jerky motion rather than a graceful sweep. No longer is your watch the treasured heirloom you intended it to be, nor is it a perfectly tuned piece of horological mastery. It is now a symptom of neglect – a dusty, disused, malfunctioning problem that nobody wants to be burdened with.

The reality is that the longer you leave a problem, the bigger that problem becomes. As insignificant as that glass-fogging problem seems now, or its tendency to lose time by each passing hour, the value of this moment (and the future of your timepiece) hinges entirely on your initiative and how you act on this problem. Do you spend money getting it fixed now? Or do you sit on it for a while?

No matter which way to look at it, the initial cost of your watch is just the beginning chapter of your ownership with that special timepiece. Whether it is destined to appreciate over time or you intend it to be a family heirloom for sentimental purposes, its worth is irrevocably tied to two things: the after-sales service that a retailer or seller provides after an initial purchase, and your own personal care of the watch.

Luxury watches are miniature instruments that have been machined or hand-assembled by masters of their art. They comprise tiny, microscopic components that all work in perfect harmony together, so long as the watch is in good condition. One malfunctioning component or broken element in this intricate chain, and the very essence of its engineering, its precision, its longevity, and its provenance can be systematically undermined. This argument alone serves to underscore the importance of a factory-authorised service centre and the implications of a watch’s overall performance and value should you choose to bypass this integral process.

This article outlines the reasons why after-sales watch servicing is not merely a convenience, but a critical part of luxury watch ownership, and the problems that can arise if a collector chooses to skip this process.

Many collectors are under the impression that the bulk of their expenditure is covered once they initially purchase their first luxury timepiece. But while a watch may cost you very little for the first few years, there comes a point where, in order to maintain its performance, beauty, and allure, you must prepare to part with some more money. You’ll want to ensure its longevity and prevent more costly problems in the future. Thinking about this logically, it’s not wild to assume that the cost of a watch’s upkeep can eventually eclipse what you spent to acquire it in the first place. Such is the nature of the hobby.

Inside a watch, hundreds of components interact multiple times per second, which means there are thousands of opportunities for any one thing to go wrong. A watch is built to allow for these components to work seamlessly alongside one another in the best possible way. To help alleviate some of the friction occurring within the movement, oil lubricates the internals, but this can dry up over time. In that same vein, impact can also affect the delicate parts of a movement. Elements can become loose, and foreign bodies can score or scratch other components. Such damage can further impair the mechanism's performance. This risk is further amplified when a watch is repaired or serviced by a non-legitimate service company. Handing your watch over to an unauthorised service company can spell disaster for your treasured timepiece.

Luxury watches, such as Omega and Rolex, have their own service and repair centers. However, many third-party companies and retailers are also genuine registered service and repair centers for those brands specifically, which is great. However, improper or unauthorized repair or servicing can lead to irreversible movement damage, particularly when incorrect tools and lubricants are used or parts are forced during the reassembly process, causing damage to the delicate escapement, springs, and gears. If the gaskets that help to seal a watch are not replaced correctly, you also risk compromising its water resistance. And that’s not even including the risk all this poses to the originality and value of your watch.

Many collectors have shared their negative experiences on forums and feedback pages, detailing how a refinishing disaster (incorrectly applied polishing and brushing techniques) has ruined their watch. Aggressive grinding wheels or an untrained hand can cause the sharp geometric lines of a luxury watch to become rounded and softened in the same way that over-polishing a watch can betray its age and take away some of that all-important character of a vintage heirloom. This, in turn, can end up stripping thousands of pounds off the value of your beloved timepiece. Overcleaning a dial can also destroy a much-loved patina – a highly sought-after feature of a vintage piece.

Even with good intentions on both the collector’s side and the unauthorised repair centre’s side, many mistakes can occur when leaving your watch in the hands of an inexperienced or unofficial service centre. Suppose the service centre you plan on using does not advertise itself as a legitimate and authorised service centre for Rolex, Omega, or any other high-end brand you own. In that case, you should reconsider using it. 

An improper service or repair does not simply remove a problem or fault; it actively introduces one. And there is nothing more critical to a true watch collector than the technical and aesthetic originality of a timepiece. Any collector knows that a service history that appears dubious or flawed can instantly be flagged as compromised or inauthentic. Sadly, such issues will instantly depreciate the value of your watch, and you’re less likely to get the asking price you want for it should you later come to sell it.

One insidious threat to the authenticity of a watch and its structural integrity is the problem of counterfeit parts. Sadly, this is an intentional practice rather than an accidental one. The aftermarket is flooded with cheap, unauthorised replacement parts. This is one reason why an official service centre is the only type you should trust.

Brands like Rolex and Omega have complete control over the distribution and production of watch parts, and regulated service centres are the only ones granted access to these. Non-accredited repair shops often use counterfeit products that resemble genuine parts but are manufactured from inferior materials and lack the correct finishing.

The long-term problems associated with fitting a luxury watch with these types of components are disastrous. Such parts can allow water ingress, thereby further damaging the watch, while other parts can introduce excessive friction to other elements within the movement. Premature wear on components like the mainspring barrel, for example, can cripple the core functions of a mechanism.

Watches fitted with improper parts are often labelled “Frankenstein” watches. The future sale of any Frankenstein watch is compromised because no collector wants to own a watch with mixed heritage. In fact, the presence of just one counterfeit part can create a chain of doubt that can poison the entire history and authenticity of a watch. Should you present an official service centre with a Frankenstein watch, they also reserve the absolute right to void any existing warranty on that watch and refuse to service it at all. Suffice to say, the risks associated with counterfeit products are tenfold and can irreversibly damage your watch both technically and reputation-wise.

Furthermore, should you lose your watch or it be stolen, insurance companies won’t touch it. Without the documentation that outlines a complete and thorough, legitimate service history, your watch may as well be worth nothing.

Part of appreciating the need to seek professional after-sales service standards is understanding what the watchmaker will do during a service.

The first step in servicing a watch is its disassembly. The watch is disassembled, and all its components are separated and removed, either by hand-held tools or machines. This part of the process is a highly complex one and should only be carried out by a trained professional. Next, the cleaning of the movement begins. During this process, every single part of the movement is meticulously cleaned, and any damaged or compromised parts are swapped for a direct replacement. The movement is then oiled to allow all the components to move freely and without friction inside the case.

A thorough service carried out by a genuine after-sales service team, such as Exquisite Timepieces, will also include water-resistance testing. This is where a watch is measured by the amount of pressure its case can withstand. The watch is checked for water resistance after the main service, during which all gaskets are closely examined and replaced as needed. After the movement has been cleaned and the water resistance checked, the watch is reassembled and quality-controlled before being returned to the customer.

One of the biggest misconceptions in watch collecting is “if it’s not broken, don’t fix it”. This belief couldn’t be further from the truth when it comes to luxury watches. Your watch is in constant motion, and this performance can degrade over time, like any luxury product, be that a flashy new sports car or a state-of-the-art hot tub.

Many manufacturers recommend that automatic and manual-winding watches be serviced every 3-5 years, while a luxury quartz watch may stretch to 7 years. Beyond these general recommendations, however, you may encounter problems that warrant an immediate service as part of its remedial plan.

If you notice your watch is running particularly fast or slow (losing or gaining around 10 seconds per day), this could warrant expert help and advice, similar to a reduced power reserve (where your watch fails to run for its stated power reserve). Additionally, if you notice that your watch is fogging up under the crystal, this could signify that its water resistance has been compromised. A crown that feels gritty or unusually loose when you wind it could also indicate your watch is failing, as does any audible irregularity, such as scraping, grinding, or ticking sounds.

Many modern watch brands today buy in their watch parts. This carries one main benefit – they’re all easy to source and last a long time. Most service centres worth their salt should be able to replace these parts, while official brand-specific service centres should have access to exclusive parts needed for that particular watch.

If your watch is keeping good time, it’s not necessary to adhere to the three-to-five-year rule for a watch service. Moreover, the key to taking good care of your watch is to use your initiative. Watch collecting becomes a little like a sixth sense over time. Just like becoming a parent, you know when something is wrong. Watches will last a little longer between services if they’re part of a weekly or daily rotation, but the key is to keep a close eye on all your watches to identify any issues before they become real problems.

You should never be afraid to lean on a brand’s expertise after you make an expensive purchase with them. Servicing a luxury watch is not only about maintaining its mechanical components, but also about preserving its value. As a customer, you’re entitled to demand the very best quality of work be carried out on your investment.

Between services, it’s essential to avoid exposing your watch to extreme temperatures or pressures that exceed its normal water-resistant capabilities. You should also take care not to drop it on hard surfaces, excessively clean it with abrasive chemicals, or expose it to strong magnetic fields. However, emergency after-sales services are there to provide you with critical help in between your regular services should you encounter any accidents.

Expert intervention is often needed if your watch experiences water damage. Moisture that breaches the case often warrants immediate remedial work, as water ingress can start to corrode the tiny steel components within a watch if left unaddressed. Delicate brass plates can also become irreversibly damaged. Trusted names like Exquisite Timepieces have after-care service centres that can immediately disassemble your watch, clean the movement, and assess it for damage. Likewise, severe impact damage will require an assessment, since it can cause the dislocation of hands, fracture to the pivot, or the plates to warp.

Beyond these emergency repairs, an after-sales service centre can also restore vintage pieces and address cosmetic issues using micro-abrasive techniques and crystal replacement processes that an unauthorized service centre may not be able to perform.

For peace of mind, any luxury watch collector should look for a provider that demonstrates a rigorous commitment to excellent watch care and maintenance. Leading dealers, such as Exquisite Timepieces, embody this model by employing only factory-authorised technicians and using genuine parts.

Retailers like this are accredited by a specific manufacturer, ensuring that proprietary procedures, tools, and know-how are always applied. Crucially, each component, handled with care by one of these experts, is free from the risk of counterfeit parts or non-specific interference. It puts them in a superior position above those who fail to adhere to these same standards.

The service procedures and level of customer communication, regardless of who you choose, should be top-tier. The company should deliver clear and thorough quotations, adhere to comprehensive work-logging practices, and provide complete transparency to the customer before undertaking any work. As after-sales service carried out by Exquisite timepieces, this level of service should extend to the provision of a full technical report once the job has been completed. It is only through experiences like the above that authorised dealers can build long-term relationships with their customers.

The key takeaway for anyone seeking to maximize the benefits of after-sales services is to prioritize the comprehensive protection of your luxury watch investment. Do not cut corners and always seek a reliable, regulated service centre like Exquisite Timepieces. Most retailers that don’t have a specialised service and repair department will help organise a service directly with the manufacturer for you, especially if your watch is still under warranty or if you encounter any problems within a specific time frame.

A timepiece is a unique asset that holds both emotional and financial value, neither of which can be replaced if you make the wrong choice by sacrificing its authenticity. Check reviews and feedback forums for a reputable repair centre before you hand your watch over to anyone for work. To further fortify your investment, taking care of your watch should become part of a broader strategy of due diligence. Ensure you keep receipts related to the sale of your watch, keep your warranty and documentation safe, and retain your service and repair work documentation, as well as your certification papers. These documents are also important when securing an adequate insurance policy.

Ultimately, the decision to invest in a comprehensive after-sales service is crucial to maintaining the integrity and precision of your treasured timepiece. By committing to these rigorous standards, you’ll protect your watch, uphold its value, and avoid unnecessary, potentially exponential costs further down the line.