Blumarine’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, under the creative direction of David Koma, unfolds as a study in duality—a poetic exploration of how beauty thrives in the tension between light and shadow. The designer channels the spirit of dark romanticism, presenting a visual dialogue between tenderness and intensity that feels both cinematic and introspective.
Koma’s vision draws upon the allure of Gothic literature and timeless love stories, fusing Blumarine’s signature romanticism with a nocturnal sensibility. The butterfly, a long-standing emblem of the House, shares the stage with the season’s motif of the dragonfly—each symbolizing transformation and fleeting beauty. Through this interplay, the collection captures the intoxicating chemistry of opposing forces: the sweet rendered somber, and the somber turned sweet.
Every look reflects Koma’s fascination with controlling the softness of flou—a French couture term describing airy, fluid draping. Romantic georgette dresses, tiered and bowed, move with theatrical rhythm, while satin gowns embroidered with butterflies reveal frayed edges that hint at deconstruction and rebirth. The contrast continues in butterfly-embroidered tulle twin sets and tops that evoke the fragile intricacy of spiderwebs, and blouses whose draped strands mimic the wings of bats or butterflies.
Patterns morph with intent. A delicate butterfly print blurs into leopard-like dots across poet blouses, while camouflage-inspired graphics animate long ruffled gowns in georgette and plumetis tulle. Here, macramé butterfly appliqués seem to hover across the bust, merging fantasy and form.
The artistry intensifies in taffeta and lace skirts layered with plissé soleil and veiled by floating butterfly motifs, creating an illusion of movement akin to smoke. A matching top adorned with punto-smocked sleeves and sequined butterflies reinforces the romantic armor theme. Elsewhere, glass cuvette paillettes shimmer across miniskirts and gowns, while multicolored embroideries enliven diaphanous tulle.
One standout design pairs a black georgette-and-lace bodice beaded to resemble an insect’s spine with a tulle skirt alive with embroidered dragonflies, butterflies, and spiders—melding anatomy with enchantment. Even tailoring bends toward fantasy: asymmetric jackets unfold into wing-like georgette panels, while butterfly lace reveals itself beneath the waistbands of sharply cut trousers. The palette—anchored in blush, sage, and noir—softens military-inspired silhouettes in cargo trousers and jackets, each lined with color-accented shearling collars.
As with all of Koma’s work, hardware and sensual structure ground the dreamscape. Rhinestone-encrusted crosses glimmer across body charms, chokers, and earrings, while multi-chain necklaces drape with crystal insects that fuse mysticism and decadence. Metal bras suspended by dragonfly breastplates embody the meeting of body and sculpture, and hammered cuffs and armlets suggest metal as a second skin.
Accessories continue the narrative of transformation. The iconic Blumarine messenger bag reappears in pierced canvas, framed by bug charms and cheeky contours. Butterfly-shaped backpacks and shearling-trimmed totes breathe whimsy into utilitarian design, while the crescent “hat bag,” first seen in Resort 2026, returns with cut-outs and plush textures. Footwear completes the metamorphosis: slick satin stilettos glisten with jeweled scarabs and butterflies, and tubular boots with kitten heels echo the silhouette of pumps, uniting softness and strength.
In Blumarine’s Spring/Summer 2026 presentation, every flutter of fabric and glint of metal tells a story of controlled chaos—a seduction between innocence and defiance. Through his lens, David Koma reshapes the house’s romantic DNA into something darker, sharper, and deeply magnetic.
By embracing contradiction, Blumarine’s latest chapter reminds us that beauty often lives in the twilight—in the delicate balance between grace and gloom.
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